It's no secret that my new home in Virginia is chock full of horrible Mexican food. Locals try to point me in the proper direction, but I'm disappointed time and time again. Those who have ever spent an appreciable amount of time in California, especially Southern, know the difference.
Needless to say when our plane landed at LAX, all I wanted was Mexican. Thankfully, my quest helped discover a hidden gem in the middle of LA.
My soon-to-be in-laws hipped me to Rodeo Mexican Grill in the Pico Union area. To be honest, I have no idea how long it's been on the unsuspecting corner of Olympic and Union but it looked fairly new. Apparently my fiance's grandmother unearthed this spot, introduced it to his parents who then turned us on. What a treat!
This edition of Rodeo was impressive to start as it had a dedicated parking lot, something you don't see too often for an inexpensive spot other than In-N-Out or McDonald's. The restaurant itself was on the small side, but boy did they pack 'em in. Meander through the switchback velvet rope dividers to place your order as you look at the amateur food photography. (Kind of like my iPhone shot. Lighting was dark and I wasn't prepared to like this place so much.)
The menu was diverse offering the usual like tacos and carne asada, but also mojarra frita (an entire fried tilapia) and camarones al mojo de ajo (garlic shrimp over rice). Rodeo Mexican Grill went so far as to offer licuados (smoothies), aguas frescas like jamaica and horchata, wine, beer and even cocktails. I really hadn't expected to see Cuba Libre, Margaritas and Sex on the Beach on the menu of a place that takes orders at a counter.
I went for a dish that tells a lot about a Mexican restaurant; carnitas. Although not horribly difficult to make, it's very easy to spot neglect if it's too dry, too fatty or bland. Carnitas holds a special place in my heart as I can remember childhood visits to my Grandparents house in Stockton. Granddaddy would take me and my brother to a local market for the juiciest, most tender, perfect balance of unctuous fat and salty pork shoulder with crispy bits still hanging on. I realize, of course, that it's hard to beat this memory.
So how did the carnitas at Rodeo Mexican Grill measure up? Not bad... not bad at all. There was a hair of dryness on some of the smaller chunks, but overall the meat was flavorful. The accompanying refried beans were super creamy, which indicated the loving use of lard in the mix. The rice was basic Spanish-esque rice with pigeon peas and a surprising addition of carrots. It wasn't the carrots that caught my eye, but rather the brunoise knife cut on them (1/8" x 1/8"). The odd shape of a carrot makes this one of the hardest cuts for me to master in school. Yet here they were, staring up at me from a plate of average rice, taunting me.
My Father in-law swears by the chicken enchiladas in rojo sauce (pictured above). But it was my Mother in-law and fiance who scored the dish of the night with the carne asada (also pictured above but waaaaay in the back). Still slightly pink in the middle, this cut of sirloin still emanated the charred scent of the grill, salt and pepper. The flavor was so good that my fiance, his brother and I stole away to Rodeo Mexican Grill again a couple of days later expressly for the carne asada. We all caught heat for not taking the parental units with. (Sorry!)
When you go, do not forget to pay a special visit to the salsa bar. This isn't like you're average El Pollo Loco salsa bar as it offered pickled jalapenos, onions and carrots as well as slices of radish (my fave!). The chopped tomato salsa was bland, however the green salsa was tomatillo tart and tangy. Local Yelp reviews said that the red salsa taste like feet, but that wasn't the case for my two visits.
Rodeo Mexican Grill truly was a treat. Is it the best Mexican food I've ever had in my life? No. That honor lives with La Fonda in Santa Fe, New Mexico. This doesn't even come close. However, for the super cheap prices, great portions and decent execution, Rodeo Mexican Grill will get my patronage when I return to LA.
Out of 5 forks, I'll hand Rodeo Mexican Grill 3 of them. It's certainly a good fix for this certified Mexican food addict.
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